siem reap was all about the temples, and angkor wat did not disappoint. the scale of it is almost impossible to put into words. you just stand there thinking "how did they build this." the people were really friendly, the country was very affordable, and getting around by tuk-tuk was part of the fun. bought a few things at the local markets, tried some cambodian food that was surprisingly good, talked with locals who were always happy to chat. the poverty and social contrast were hard to ignore. you see it everywhere. in the streets, in the floating village, in the way people live. it stays with you. the best story from cambodia had nothing to do with the temples though. the night before i was supposed to leave, i impulsively booked a flight to vietnam. tickets, hotel, everything. a few hours later i realized i needed a visa. panicked, searched everywhere, ended up paying for an emergency visa even though i wasn't sure it would arrive in time. the flight was the next day at 4pm. the visa came through at 12pm. i was relieved, rushed to the airport, and when i got to check-in they told me the visa was valid starting the following day, not that day. tried everything: travel agencies, another emergency visa, begging. nothing worked. lost the flight, paid for another night. ended up staying at a family guesthouse. the owner gave me the best mango i've ever eaten in my life, cooked me a meal, and the next morning drove me to the airport himself. we talked the whole ride. sometimes the best moments come from the worst plans.